Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2023 draws on the understated trends of the past: the looks shrouded in secrecy that went on to become the precedents of today. Straight from Paris Fashion Week, we look at the most memorable looks from the collection, presented by Anthony Vaccarello.
There is something undeniably graceful about hoods for the summer — shapeless yet definite, an elongation of the outer layer; an extension of the self. From the tubular sheath that the legendary Martha Graham donned for her 1930 choreography Lamentation, which enshrouded her body to Yves Saint Laurent’s own hooded, diaphanous chiffon dresses crafted in collaboration with Claude Lalanne in 1969, the concept has been reprised over the decades.
Yves Saint Laurent’s hooded ‘capuche’ pieces that took over the mid-1980s had been a clear point of reference for Anthony Vaccarello as he set out to merge an essential attitude with last season’s ‘elongated’ silhouette for the SS23 collection. For an added ultra-refined touch, the show at Paris Fashion Week saw pieces in muted colours: shades of brown, black and the occasional hints of mustard-yellow take on the runway.
Despite the soft and somewhat restrained tones, the SS23 collection is radically fluid. Through silk jersey knits and floor-length dresses, there is an elegant ease balanced with a bold sense of masculinity through its outerwear. ‘Quintessentially Saint Laurent by Vaccarello’ is one way to describe this stark contrast. Wool coats with strong shoulders, leather bombers and trenches keep the look grounded, while the legs are prolonged through columnar silhouettes.
Think the upright pillars of the Palais-Royal: tall, sophisticated and visually stunning. Set against the terraces, fountains and views of the iridescent city, the Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2023 show elevated the essence of Paris to a cinematic scale. Juxtaposed with sculptural wood and gold jewellery, the collection exudes a strong yet effortless quality that ripples beyond the world of fashion.
Here are 9 best looks from the Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2023 show.
[Images by Saint Laurent]